The Columbus restaurateur celebrates Italian cuisine with a milestone restaurant in the refurbished G. Michael’s space.
It’s really amazing that over the span of three decades Cameron Mitchell has opened 100 restaurants; the restaurateur who has become synonymous with Columbus doesn’t seem to be slowing down. In 2023, he opened two new Columbus eateries, and this year he’s on track to open two more (and that’s just locally). So it seems fitting that his 100th restaurant, an Italian spot appropriately named Cento (Italian for 100), stands out among the new Columbus culinary offerings of 2023.
In terms of legacies, Cento has a lot to live up to. The restaurant space on Third Street in German Village was the longtime home of the beloved G. Michael’s Bistro & Bar. Mitchell’s doing right by that legacy so far, assembling his usual expert team to craft a winning menu, handsome wine list and dynamic hospitality. The space itself has been lavishly refurbished, with a gorgeous bar, plush booths and chandeliers. A bright and airy garden room looks out over the brick-lined terrazzo with a fountain and a fireplace, sure to rival popular neighborhood patios like Barcelona’s and Lindey’s.
As expansive as Mitchell’s work tends to be, the menu at Cento is surprisingly focused (and pricey), topping 20 Italian dishes at dinner and ranging from antipasto and salads to pastas and entrées. It invites diners to celebrate Mitchell’s enduring love of Italian cuisine through housemade burrata, Caesar salads assembled tableside, rich risottos, grilled branzino, chicken saltimbocca and a much-talked-about veal Parmesan weighing in at $66. There’s no debate, however, that any meal at Cento should finish with a bite of panna cotta or tiramisu, paired with a shot of espresso or an affogato.
595 S. Third St., German Village, 614-696-6565, centogermanvillage.com
If You Order One Thing
Pastas are a favorite at Cento; Mitchell has said he and his wife are especially partial to them. Try the spiraled girelle with eggplant and ricotta salata, a firmer preparation of the white cheese.